Free And Cheap Off Grid Power Ram pump updates

Here's an update from this blog post:

This picture has been removed many times from this site why?
It is the purpose why we are writing this paper to tell you what they don't want you to know about ram pumps and how they took him off the part call the water wheel to take it weighs the efficiency of the pup. The water wheel and the pump itself works in conjunction 2 conform a high-quality non electrical call. So with all the thousands of YouTube videos why haven't one person mentioning this design, they definitely know about it or I wouldn't have a picture of it. Second why don't they use it when we go off the grid I'm going to tell you why don't matter why they say they didn't do it the end results is they never told you this.

Some people may be upset with me because I didn't explain it to their satisfaction, sorry for all that but I'm new to this to I just do extensive research at Media Library a library who looks for such things, I just wanted people to know that the waste water normally leaking back into the ground or back into whatever water source one has can be used in conjunction with a water wheel and then Force the pump to work to pump the Wastewater itself to a certain area oh, it's like having two pumps which should lead you to the idea, using more than one pump to do what you needed to do. Yes even though I've seen people on you to fail at this you can make a teeny tiny water pump it all has to do with the weight of the water and the spring and Float mechanisms have to be calibrated correctly with the amount of water you want to use. And our research at Media Library we have succeeded in building very small to very large pumps which we did updates on those large water ram pumps also. It's a big job trying to explain every little detail but I am doing my best to get you to understand I even posted pictures of water wheels in and around the Roman error that uses the power of water to pump water to high altitudes oh, I also posted other types of hydraulic pumps that's used in your Gardens to show various sides and different styles of this technology, hoping that someone will put it all together and connect the dots. But simply if you didn't understand the best way for you to do is to give us the car at Media Library 313-651-5349. We're building these projects into a museum for you to understand that these Technologies are being hidden from you probably through peer pressure other suppressive means like them.

I searched many times and has put it on many of my sight sings like above this portable hydro system from China, which I was restricted from buying. Never understood why and never understood why they kept taking the image down, maybe it's someone out there trying to say that that's not what that is! And yet I use this in the way guy state in my own Gardens, then I get banned from Facebook oh, but I don't want to be sounding like I'm crying or upset about it I just understand why they don't want anything free out there it destroys businesses and they work really hard to make you pay for something you could have for free. 

Proof that I put this type of technology and other places too let people know how to build a better hydraulic pump there is no such thing as waste in less you believe in the United States of America to throw everything away so much for the 3 R's.

https://showmeyourproof.blogspot.com/2018/07/another-update-to-ram-pump-without.html

Go back and see the original paper below

 https://showmeyourproof.blogspot.com/2018/05/back-torque-energy-in-water-flow.html

Do you recognize the picture above

This is a hydraulic ram pump, illustration Below on how it works. The first picture that you see is a redesign of how this entrelec originally worked. We modified it to not only pump water with no electricity but also generate electricity at the same time in the little box below the pump, the second illustrations are showing you the original hydraulic pumps blue in color but they will Rust overtime because their cast iron. We have made many modifications to these pumps so you can use them in everyday life even if you don't have running water.

Below is a link on how to build your own

http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic-Ram-Pump/

When people make the choice to become preppers and live off grid, there are a number of off grid power options to think about due to the loss of electricity.j

But going off the grid is the most important component of self sufficient living. 
Just because you’re living off the grid – it doesn’t mean you have to go without power completely.

Here we are going to discover some free and off grid power options for preppers, and survivalists.

We all know batteries are too expensive to store – unless you have rechargeable batteries with solar powered chargers. The below video will give you enough information on hydropower and what to do with it but we want to either bring this inside the house in the winter time or beneath the ground and have it running 24 hours all year round, look at the below diagrams and pictures on RAM pump ideas. We've already gave you an idea first picture scene on what a ram pump can do. The video is only for reference on hydropower systems oh, and you will be able to do the same with the ram pump. Remember height is key to get the pressure needed, then all you need to do is follow his directions on using the alternator or any other generator you would like to use.

https://youtu.be/8sJki5mGcvQ
Choose a different type of hydraulic pump it's also in the ram pump technology family if the YouTube video is still there and functioning you can follow the link but I suspect people don't want you to make these types of connections or it would be all over YouTube.

One thing you should consider is to buy any gadgets that don’t require electricity at all, like hand crank radios, etc. But there are other options you can consider – such as solar, wind and water generated power.

Solar power is the most common option that people think of when they consider moving from a dependency on an electric company. Solar panels can be pricey, but they quickly pay you back for your investment.

You can cook with solar ovens, charge your electronics with solar-powdered gadgets, and do just about anything that you would normally use with paid electricity. You can either buy solar panels or make themyourself.

Be careful about some of the crude do it yourself tutorials. You want things to work on a budget, but you don’t want to put your family at risk with a set up that endangers anyone.

One option, depending on the property and its water resources, is to create a hydro-power system. You have to have a stream or river flowing nearby that has a nice drop in elevation for it to work properly.

Wind power is another option. You can install wind turbines that will generate electricity, but you need to live in an area that consistently delivers wind speeds around 9-10 miles per hour for it to work.

With all of these options, you have choices that range between crude, low power producing products and extravagant products that leave you carefree and fully secure with a working system.

One thing that each homesteading family needs to do is determine how much power they really need. You’ll want to cut down on your electric usage – unplug appliances when not in use, turn off lights, etc.

Then you can better choose among the viable options you have to deliver enough power to provide for your family.

If possible, be sure you have several options on your homestead so that if there’s not a lot of rain, or the water flow gets plugged up, or the wind dies down, you won’t be left in the dark.

Once you understand that the pipe going into the hydraulic pump doesn't matter which direction it is Flowing look at the illustration

It doesn't matter if it water comes in the back way, or over-the-top and in the back as long as the water is moving it creates water pressure.

 reference video

old diagram

Bring the two bottom arrows together

Some of you did not understand this diagram, for those who went to college it just didn't make sense. Of course we wanted to give you enough information to figure it out yourself but again they don't teach that in a college they only teach to follow directions. The two lower arrows the darker ones, are supposed to be connected together let's see a new diagram for those whose imagination has been eliminated.

( as you can see I'm not a very good illustrator I just did my best)

My attempts to explain how to put this apparatus into a Hydro Dam to produce power for oneself in a small area even an apartment of course the diagrams are not adequate to attempt the project and I made many upgrades to the original designs I published sorry about that but if you tried it and had any kind of imagination you would have figured it out I believe in the intelligence of people. But I could be wrong?

Okay time for a more detail upgrade diagram

 people have asked me to question if this ideal would even work because the pump was under water here is your answer!

This pump be put Underground or above-water the choice is up to you, see some of the featured pictures for ideas if this is put beneath the ground.

pool size

 the pump and 

water wheel are underground

Description	Overall Dimensions	Pricing/Order Information
Item # 21001 Table Model for Indoors or Outdoors 12" Diameter Water Wheel  Water Pump is included.   All components are constructed with water resistant materials We offer your choice of  unfinished or stained.	22" High 14" Wide 14" Deep The measurements above  are for a standard size unit.  Unit can be made in  different  sizes to fit your needs."

This completes the portable ramp pump ideas built by Media Library it is up-to-date as far as the technology we are giving to you free there are further designs and smaller designs for pay below is more details on how to build your home made Ram pump. 

if anyone has any trouble or any doubts that this will work then they should leave comments below if you like this idea you should leave comments below, this should put to rest about free energy not being real

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               What you will need to build one of these hydraulic Ram pumps

This information is provided as a service to those wanting to build their own hydraulic ram pump.  The data from our experiences with one of these home-made hydraulic ram pumps is listed in Table 4 near the bottom of this document. The typical cost of fittings for an 1-1/4" pump is currently $120.00 (U.S.A.) regardless of whether galvanized or PVC fittings are used.

Click here to see a picture of an assembled ram pump

Table 1.  Image Key

1	1-1/4" valve	10	1/4" pipe cock
2	1-1/4" tee	11	100 psi gauge
3	1-1/4" union	12	1-1/4" x 6" nipple
4	1-1/4" brass swing check valve (picture)	13	4" x 1-1/4" bushing
5	1-1/4" spring check valve	14	4" coupling
6	3/4" tee	15	4" x 24" PR160 PVC pipe
7	3/4" valve	16	4" PVC glue cap
8	3/4" union	17	3/4" x 1/4" bushing
9	1-1/4" x 3/4" bushing

All connectors between the fittings are threaded pipe nipples - usually 2" in length or shorter. This pump can be made from PVC fittings or galvanized steel. In either case, it is recommended that the 4" diameter fittings be PVC fittings to conserve weight.

Conversion Note: 1" (1 inch) = 2.54 cm; 1 PSI (pound/square inch) = 6.895 KPa or 0.06895 bar; 1 gallon per minute = 3.78 liter per minute. PR160 PVC pipe is PVC pipe rated at 160 psi pressure.

Click here to see an image-by-image explanation of how a hydraulic ram pump works

Click here to see a short mpeg movie of an operating ram pump
(Note - this is a 6.2 mb movie clip.  On slower systems (11 mbps, etc.), it will load "piece-meal" the first time.  Allow it to finish playing in this fashion, then press the play button again to see it in full motion with no "buffering" stops.  Dial-up users may have to download the file to see it - simply right-click on the link, then select "Save Target As..." to save it to your computer.  Downloading may take considerable time if you are on a slower dial-up system.)

Assembly Notes:

Pressure Chamber - A bicycle or "scooter tire" inner tube is placed inside the pressure chamber (part 15) as an "air bladder" to prevent water-logging or air-logging. Inflate the tube until it is "spongy" when squeezed, then insert it in the chamber. It should not be inflated very tightly, but have some "give" to it.  Note that water will absorb air over time, so the inner tube is used to help prevent much of this absorbtion.  You may find it necessary, however, to drain the ram pump occasionally to allow more air into the chamber.  (The University of Warwick design (link below, pages 12-13) suggests the use of a "snifter" to allow air to be re-introduced to the ram during operation.  Their design, however, is substantially different from the one offered here and provides a location (the branch of a tee) where the addition of a snifter is logical.  This design does not.  Also, correctly sizing the snifter valve (or hole as the case may be) can be problematical and may allow the addition of too much air, resulting in air in the drive pipe and ceasing of pumping operation.  For these reasons we have elected not to include one in this design.)
According to information provided by the University of Warwick (UK) (http://www.eng.warwick.ac.uk/dtu/pubs/tr/lift/rptr12/tr12.pdf , page 14), the pressure chamber should have a minimum volume of 20 times the expected delivery flow per "cycle" of the pump, with 50 times the expected delivery being a better selection.  The chart below provides some recommended minimum pressure chamber sizes based on 50 times the expected delivery flow per "cycle."  Note that larger pressure chambers will have not have any negative impact on the pump performance (other than perhaps requiring a little more time to initially start the pump).  Some of the lengths indicated are quite excessive, so you may prefer to use two or three pipes connected together in parallel to provide the required pressure chamber volume.  Well pump pressure tanks will also work well - just make sure they have at least the minimum volume required.
Table 2.  Suggested Minimum Pressure Chamber Sizes 
(Based on ram pumps operating at 60 cycles per minute.)

Drive Pipe Diameter(inches)	Expected Flow Per Cycle(gallons)	Pressure Chamber Volume Required (gallons)	Length of Pipe Required for Pressure Chamber (for indicated pipe diameter) (lengths are in inches)
			2 inch	2-1/2 inch	3 inch	4 inch	6 inch	8 inch	10 inch	12 inch
3/4	0.0042	0.21	15	11	7	--	--	--	--	--
1	0.0125	0.63	45	32	21	--	--	--	--	--
1-1/4	0.020	1.0	72	51	33	19	--	--	--	--
1-1/2	0.030	1.5	105	74	48	27	--	--	--	--
2	0.067	3.4	--	170	110	62	27	16	--	--
2-1/2	0.09	4.5	--	230	148	85	37	22	14	--
3	0.15	7.5	--	--	245	140	61	36	23	16
4	0.30	15	--	--	--	280	122	72	45	32
6	0.80	40	--	--	--	--	325	190	122	85
8	1.60	80	--	--	--	--	--	380	242	170

(Note - it is quite difficult to push a partially-inflated 16 inch bicycle inner tube into a 3 inch PVC pipe.  Due to this we suggest the pressure chamber be a minimum of 3 inches in diameter.)
A 4" threaded plug and 4" female adapter were originally used instead of the 4" glue-on cap shown in the image,  This combination leaked regardless of how tightly it was tightened or how much teflon tape sealant was used, resulting in water-logging of the pressure chamber.  This in turn dramatically increased the shock waves and could possibly have shortened pump life.  If the bicycle tube should need to be serviced when using the glue cap design, the pipe may be cut in half then re-glued together using a coupling.
Valve Operation Descriptions - Valve #1 is the drive water inlet for the pump. Union #8 is the exit point for the pressurized water. Swing check valve #4 is also known as the "impetus" or "waste" valve - the extra drive water exits here during operation. The "impetus" valve is the valve that is operated manually at the beginning (by pushing it in with a finger) to charge the ram and start normal operation.
Valves #1 and #7 could be ball valves instead of gate valves.  Ball valves may withstand the shock waves of the pump better over a long period of time.
The swing check valve (part 4 - also known as the impetus valve) can be adjusted to vary the length of stroke (please note that maximum flow and pressure head will be achieved with this valve positioned vertically, with the opening facing up). Turn the valve on the threads until the pin in the clapper hinge of the valve is in line with the pipe (instead of perpendicular to it). Then move the tee the valve is attached to slightly away from vertical, making sure the clapper hinge in the swing check is toward the top of the valve as you do this. The larger the angle from vertical, the shorter the stroke period (and the less potential pressure, since the water will not reach as high a velocity before shutting the valve).  For maximum flow and pressure valve #4 should be in a vertical position (the outlet pointed straight up).
Swing check valve #4 should always be brass (or some metal) and not plastic.  Experiences with plastic or PVC swing check valves have shown that the "flapper" or "clapper" in these valves is very light weight and therefore closes much earlier than the "flapper" of a comparable brass swing check.  This in turn would mean lower flow rates and lower pressure heads.
The pipe cock (part 10) is in place to protect the gauge after the pump is started. It is turned off after the pump has been started and is operating normally. Turn it on if needed to check the outlet pressure, then turn it back off to protect the gauge.
Drive Pipe - The length of the drive pipe (from water source to pump) also affects the stroke period. A longer drive pipe provides a longer stroke period. There are maximum and minimum lengths for the drive pipe (see the paragraph below Table 2). The drive pipe is best made from galvanized steel (more rigid is better) but schedule 40 PVC can be used with good results.   The more rigid galvanized pipe will result in a higher pumping efficiency and allow higher pumping heights.  Rigidity of the drive pipe seems to be more important in this efficiency than straightness of the drive pipe.
Drive pipe length and size ratios are apparently based on empirical data. Information from University of Georgia publications (see footnote) provides an equation from Calvert (1958), which describes the output and stability of ram pump installations based on the ratio of the drive pipe length (L) to the drive pipe diameter (D). The best range is an L/D ratio of between 150 and 1000 (L/D = 150 to L/D = 1000).  Equations to use to determine these lengths are:
            Minimum inlet pipe length:            L = 150 x (inlet pipe size)
            Maximum inlet pipe length:            L = 1000 x (inlet pipe size)
If the inlet pipe size is in inches, then the length (L) will also be presented in inches.  If inlet pipe size is in mm, then L will be presented in mm.
Drive Pipe Length Example: If the drive pipe is 1-1/4 inches (1.25 inches) in diameter, then the minimum length should be  L = 150 x 1.25 = 187.5 inches (or about 15.6 feet). The maximum length for the same 1-1/4 inch drive pipe would be L = 1000 x 1.25 = 1250 inches (104 feet). The drive pipe should be as rigid and as straight as possible.
Stand pipe or no stand pipe?  Many hydraulic ram installations show a "stand pipe" installed on the inlet pipe.  The purpose of this pipe is to allow the water hammer shock wave to dissipate at a given point.  Stand pipes are only necessary if the inlet pipe will be longer than the recommended maximum length (for instance, in the previous example a stand pipe may be required if the inlet pipe were to be 150 feet in length, but the maximum inlet length was determined to be only 104 feet).  The stand pipe - if needed - is generally placed in the line the same distance from the ram as the recommended maximum length indicated.
The stand pipe must be vertical and extend vertically at least 1 foot (0.3 meter) higher than the elevation of the water source - no water should exit the pipe during operation (or perhaps only a few drops during each shock wave cycle at most).  Many recommendations suggest that the stand pipe should be 3 sizes larger than the inlet pipe.  The supply pipe (between the stand pipe and the water source) should be 1 size larger than the inlet pipe.
The reason behind this is simple - if the inlet pipe is too long, the water hammer shock wave will travel farther, slowing down the pumping pulses of the ram.  Also, in many instances there may actually be interference with the operation of the pump due to the length of travel of the shock wave.  The stand pipe simply allows an outlet to the atmosphere to allow the shock wave to release or dissipate.  Remember, the stand pipe is not necessary unless the inlet pipe will have to be longer than the recommended maximum length.
Another option would be to pipe the water to an open tank (with the top of the tank at least 1 foot (0.3 meter) higher than the vertical elevation of the water source), then attach the inlet pipe to the tank.  The tank will act as a dissipation chamber for the water hammer shock wave just as the stand pipe would.  This option may not be viable if the tank placement would require some sort of tower, but if the topography allows this may be a more attractive option.
Click here to view sketches of these types of hydraulic ram pump installations(loads in 70 seconds over 28.8 modem)

Operation:

The pump will require some back pressure to begin working.  A back pressure of 10 psi or more should be sufficient. If this is not provided by elevation-induced back pressure from pumping the water uphill to the delivery point (water trough, etc.), use the 3/4" valve (part 7) to throttle the flow somewhat to provide this backpressure.
As an alternative to throttling valve part 7 you may consider running the outlet pipe into the air in a loop, and then back down to the trough to provide the necessary back pressure.  A total of 23 feet of vertical elevation above the pump outlet should be sufficient to provide the necessary back pressure.   This may not be practical in all cases, but adding 8 feet of pipe after piping up a hill of 15 feet in elevation should not be a major problem.  This will allow you to open valve #7 completely, preventing stoppage of flow by trash or sediment blocking the partially-closed valve. It is a good idea to include a tee at the outlet of the pump with a ball valve to allow periodic "flushing" of the sediment just in case.
The pump will have to be manually started several times when first placed in operation to remove the air from the ram pump piping. Start the pump by opening valve 1 and leaving valve 7 closed. Then, when the swing check (#4) shuts, manually push it open again. (The pump will start with valve 7 closed completely, pumping up to some maximum pressure before stopping operation.) After the pump begins operation, slowly open valve 7, but do not allow the discharge pressure (shown on gauge #11) to drop below 10 psi.  You may have to push valve #4 open repeatedly to re-start the pump in the first few minutes (10 to 20 times is not abnormal) - air in the system will stop operation until it is purged.
The unions, gate (or ball) valves, and pressure gauge assembly are not absolutely required to make the pump run, but they sure do help in installing, removing, and starting the pump as well as regulating the flow.

Pump Performance:

Some information suggests that typical ram pumps discharge approximately 7 gallons of water through the waste valve for every gallon pressurized and pumped.  The percentage of the drive water delivered actually varies based on the ram construction, vertical fall to pump, and elevation to the water outlet.  The percentage of the drive water pumped to the desired point may be approximately 22% when the vertical fall from the water source to the pump is half of the elevation lift from the ram to the water outlet.  It may be as low as 2% or less when the vertical fall from the water source to the pump is 4% of the elevation lift from the ram to the water outlet.  Rife Hydraulic Engine Manufacturing Company literature (http://www.riferam.com/) offers the following equation:

0.6 x Q x F/E  = D

Q is the available drive flow in gallons per minute, F is the fall in feet from the water source to the ram, E is the elevation from the ram to the water outlet, and D is the flow rate of the delivery water in gallons per minute.  0.6 is an efficiency factor and will differ somewhat between various ram pumps.  For instance, if 12 gallons per minute is available to operate a ram pump (D), the pump is placed 6 feet below the water source (F), and the water will be pumped up an elevation of 20 feet to the outlet point (E), the amount of water that may be pumped with an appropriately-sized ram pump is

0.6 x 12 gpm x 6 ft / 20 ft = 2.16 gpm

The same pump with the same drive flow will provide less flow if the water is to be pumped up a higher elevation.  For instance, using the data in the previous example but increasing the elevation lift to 40 feet (E):

0.6 x 12 gpm x 6 ft / 40 ft = 1.08 gpm

Table 3.  Typical Hydraulic Ram specifications (Expected water output will be approximately 1/8 of the input flow, but will vary with installation fall (F) and elevation lift (E) as noted above.  This chart is based on 5 feet of lift (E) per 1 foot of fall (F).)

Drive Pipe Diameter(inches)	Delivery Pipe Diameter(inches)	At Minimum Inflow		At Maximum Inflow
		Pump Inflow (gallons per minute)	Expected Output (gallons per minute)	Pump Inflow (gallons per minute)	Expected Output (gallons per minute)
3/4	1/2	3/4	1/10	2	1/4
1	1/2	1-1/2	1/5	6	3/4
1-1/4	1/2	2	1/4	10	1-1/5
1-1/2	3/4	2-1/2	3/10	15	1-3/4
2	1	3	3/8	33	4
2-1/2	1-1/4	12	1-1/2	45	5-2/5
3	1-1/2	20	2-1/2	75	9
4	2	30	3-5/8	150	18
6	3	75	9	400	48
8	4	400	48	800	96

Table 4.  Test Installation Information

Drive Pipe Size	1-1/4 inch Schedule 40 PVC
Outlet Pipe Size	3/4 inch Schedule 40 PVC
Pressure Chamber size	4 inch PR160 PVC
Pressure Chamber Length	36 inches
Inlet Pipe Length	100 feet
Outlet Pipe Length	40 feet
Drive Water (Inlet) elevation above pump	4 feet
Elevation from pump outlet to delivery outlet	12 feet

Click here to see pictures of the test installation (loads in 38 seconds over 28.8 modem)

Table 5.  Trial 1 Performance Data

	Expected Performance	At Installation (5/17/99)	After Installation(with water-log)(5/21/99)	After Clearing Water-log (6/20/99)
Shutoff Head	5 to 17 psi	22 psi	50 psi	22 psi
Operating Head	10 psi	10 psi	10 psi	10 psi
Operating Flow Rate	0.50 to 1.00 gpm	0.28 gpm	1.50 gpm	0.33 gpm

Note that we used a 4" threaded plug and a 4" female adapter for our test pump (instead of the recommended 4" glue cap (#16) shown in the figure).  Two days after installation the pump air chamber was effectively water-logged due to leakage past the threads of these two fittings, which was shown by the pronounced impulse pumping at the outlet discharge point.  If the pump were allowed to remain waterlogged, it would shortly cease to operate - and may introduce damage to the pipe or other components due to pronounced water hammer pressure surges.

The large range of expected values for shutoff head is due to the unknown efficiency of the pump.   Typical efficiencies for ram pumps range from 3 feet to 10 feet of lift for every 1 foot of elevation drop from the water inlet to the pump.

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Common Problems

The most common problems that prevent a ram pump from operating:

(1) The swing check valve (valve #4) must be the same size as the drive pipe and the tee (tee #2) it is attached to.

(2) The drive pipe is too long or too short. For a 1.25 inch (3.2 cm) drive pipe that means no shorter than 15.6 feet (4.8 meters), and no longer than 104 feet (31.8 meters). Too short of a drive pipe may not allow the pressure wave to develop; too long of a pipe will allow successive pressure waves to interfere with one another. Use the equation provided above to find appropriate lengths for other pipe sizes.

(3) A garden hose is supplying the test installation. The flow velocity from the hose into the drive pipe will create pressure on the waste valve. The best test setup is to plumb the drive pipe into a bucket or a livestock water tank, and keep that filled with water. Sticking a hose into the drive pipe destroys the water hammer wave.

(4) The air has not been purged from the system. Usually the waste valve flapper (valve #4) must be manually pushed from 20 to 50 times to get the pump started. 100 times, though, is too much – something’s wrong.

(5) The valve on the discharge side is open (valve #7). This valve should be closed while the pump is being started – the pump will run 30+ seconds with it closed after it starts, building pressure. After the pump starts running, slowly open that valve. Make sure, though, that at least 10 psi (0.7 bar or 69 kPa) of back pressure is maintained on the pump. It will not work with less.

(6) There is not enough elevation drop from the drive pipe inlet to the ram pump. 5 feet (1.5 m) of elevation drop is recommended. The pump may work with only 4 feet (1.2 m) of elevation drop. It will not work well or at all with less. (Note that if the pipe is plumbed into a pool of water, the elevation difference is taken from the surface of the water to the ram pump, not from the location of the drive pipe inlet.)

(7) There is an air leak in the pressure chamber. Larger PVC pipe sizes ( 2 inches or 5 cm and larger) require the use of a PVC primer to soften and clean the PVC before the PVC cement is used. Failure to use the primer may prevent the joint from joining properly and allow air to escape or the joint to come apart. Primer is usually not needed on 1.5 inch (3.8 cm) and smaller pipes.
Time to show you the history behind this device which is over a hundred years old remember we're only showing you how to build it for yourself the electronic part will be up to you but it's completely free and off the grid power supply

Water-powered water pumps

Hydraulic ram water pumps use downhill water pressure to pump water much higher than it started, with no other power needed. A 20ft fall is enough to push water 150 feet above the source or more. Or as little as a 2ft fall between the water source and the pump at a flow rate of 1 to 3 gallons per minute is enough to pump water 20ft higher than the source -- as much as 4,000 gallons a day, depending on the model.

Folk hydraulic ram pump

No modern magic this -- ram pumps were invented more than 300 years ago. A more recent variation is the High Lifter pump, which uses different principles to do the same thing. Ram pumps are noisy, high lifters are silent and can work with less water, but the water has to be clean and grit free, while the ram pump is not so fussy.

Build your own ram pump

These pumps can be expensive. Home Power magazine has had several good articles on the pumps, including designs and instructions for a cheap ram pump you can build yourself using off-the-shelf materials and a recycled fire-extinguisher. See: Hydraulic Ram Pump -- adapted from "A Manual for Constructing and Operating a Hydraulic Ram Pump" by Kurt Janke & Louise Finger, "Homebrew", Home Power #41, June / July 1994. Digital back issues can be bought online:http://www.homepower.com/
High Lifter pump maker Alternative Energy Engineering is now part of solar electric company Applied Power Corporation.
http://www.solarelectric.com/
More information on the High Lifter Pump
http://www.solarelectric.com/products/level3_179.htm

More information about High Lifter pumps from supplier Mark Snyder Electric -- Application & Installation, How High Lifters Work, Question & Answer, Not a Ram Pump (the differences). Also sells ram pumps.
http://www.marksnyderelectric.com/catalog/waterpoweredpumps.htmlFleming Hydro-Ram pumps are powerful, lightweight, practically maintenance-free, and cheaper. From The Ram Company:
http://www.theramcompany.com/

The Bamford "Hi-Ram Pump" is a simple, low-cost, self-powered water pump using new patented technology. The principle is similar to conventional ram pumps, but its construction and characteristics are different. The heart of the pump is a stainless steel adjustment tube, and a free-floating high-impact plastic ball. It is quickly adjusted using alternative tubes, and the plastic ball gives quiet operation. While much higher outlet pressures are possible, the 25 mm (1 inch) pump can lift about 1500 litres of water daily to a height of 20 metres, using 2 to 3 metres drive head and 20 litres a minute inlet flow. The pump will operate when totally underwater. It can be made to supply compressed air or to provide a direct mechanical output to drive other devices, and can also act as a suction pump. Made with an eye to the needs of developing countries. Priced from about US$125.
http://www.bamford.com.au/rampump/

Hydraulic Rams -- Computer Simulation and Optimum Design
Although the hydraulic ram pump has been around for roughly 200 years, its design has been largely left to trial and error. Here is a computer-aided method for improving performance. Y.C. Chiang, Ali A. Seirig, Mechanical Engineering Department, University of Wisconsin, Madison, Wis.
-- From Computers in Mechanical Engineering, January 1985 (with thanks to Kirk McLoren)

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Good overview of ram pumps and their uses and restrictions from the Working Group On Development Techniques (WOT) in Holland (also rope pumps, windmills):
http://www.wot.utwente.nl/documents/articles/rampumps.html

Dutch engineer Gert Breur's ram pumps are simpler, and they not only pump, they can also suck water up from a low-lying area into a stream. Breur has also developed a small ram pump, easy to assemble, using standard "garden" materials except for some pressure tube. Materials list, numbered pictures and "exploded-view" photos show you how.
http://www.wot.utwente.nl/documents/articles/breurram/index.html

More about Gert Breur's water-powered suction ram pumps, including Spanish text; also rope-pump and more:
http://www.geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/System/7014/index.html

Updated ram design from Gravi-Chek -- The Gravi-Chek pump is the newest technology available in the ram pump industry. The Gravi-Chek pumps have been tested by the Center for Irrigation Technology at the California Agricultural Technology Institute. There are three models available, providing water at rates from 20 to 16,000 gallons per day, depending on the installation
http://www.gravi-chek.com/Hydraulic ram pumps -- 6-page Technical Brief, Practical Action (Intermediate Technology Development Group, ITDG), Acrobat file, 190 K
http://www.itdg.org/html/technical_enquiries/docs/hydraulic_ram_pumps.pdf

Overview of ram pumps (and hand pumps) with some useful diagrams, from the (ahem) "Sourcebook of Alternative Technologies for Freshwater Augmentation in Small Island Developing States/Part B - Technology Profile/2. Technologies Applicable To Very Small, Low Coral Islands/ 2.1 Freshwater Augmentation Technologies/2.1.3 Pumps":
http://www.unep.or.jp/ietc/Publications/TechPublications/
TechPub-8d/pumps.aspRam Pump System Design Notes from the Development Technology Unit, School of Engineering, University of Warwick, UK: Online papers -- Introduction to hydraulic ram pumps, how ram pumps work, instructions for use and manufacture, designs, plans and drawings; also low-cost handpumps.
http://www.eng.warwick.ac.uk/DTU/lift/index.html

Another ram pump overview, more diagrams, equations, tables:
http://www2.ncsu.edu/eos/service/bae/www/programs/
extension/publicat/wqwm/ebae161_92.htmlLifewater Canada -- Hydraulic ram pumps and Sling Pumps. Lots of great information at this site.
http://www.lifewater.ca/ram_pump.htm
See also Handpumps Resources -- Handpumps and water well drilling training for safe drinking water:
http://www.lifewater.ca/Designing a Hydraulic Ram Pump -- US AID Water for the World Technical Notes
http://www.lifewater.org/wfw/rws4/rws4d5.htm

"All About Hydraulic Ram Pumps -- How and Where They Work", Don R. Wilson, 1994 (updated), Atlas Pubns, ISBN 0963152629 -- This book explains in simple terms and with illustrations how the ram pump works, where it can be set up, and how to keep it going. The second section of the book gives step-by-step plans for building a fully operational Atlas ram pump from readily available plumbing fittings that requires NO welding, drilling, tapping or special tools. The final chapter shows how to build an inexpensive ferro-cement water storage unit with up to 15,000 gallon capacity. Buy from Amazon.com: All About Hydraulic Ram Pumps

Rife Hydraulic Engine Mfg. Co. Inc. has specialized in pumping water without electricity or fuel for over 117 years -- one of the original Water Ram manufacturers and the oldest. Manufacture 19 different models of ram pumps, pumping up to 500 ft vertically and producing up to 350,000 gal/day. Rife also manufactures the Slingpump, which works on the flow of a stream, creek or river and can lift water up to 82 ft vertically and up to one mile away, 24 hours a day with no maintenance.http://www.riferam.com/Needed by African farmers: simple water pumps -- Finding sufficient water for irrigation is one of the major challenges facing farmers in sub-Saharan Africa, where only 4% of arable land is irrigated, severely constraining agricultural productivity in a region where an estimated one third of the population is chronically undernourished. Locally produced low-cost treadle pumps instead could make an important difference and could boost food security in the region significantly, says a new report, "Treadle pumps for irrigation in Africa". Treadle pumps make it easier for farmers to retrieve water for their fields or vegetable gardens, and they are cheap and easy to handle. If pumps are produced locally, they can also create jobs and income.Many African farmers are still irrigating very small plots of land using bucket-lifting technologies, which are slow, cumbersome and labour intensive. Treadle pumps are far more efficient and user-friendly. They can be used in a comfortable way, the farmer stands on the treadles, pressing the pistons up and down, lifting up to five cubic metres per hour (5,000 litres).
http://www.fao.org/news/2001/010103-e.htm

Practical Action books

Prototype ram pump in India -- built for one-tenth the commercial price

"Manual on the Automatic Hydraulic Ram for Pumping Water" by Simon B. Watt, 1978, Practical Action (Intermediate Technology Development Group, ITDG), ISBN 0903031159
Assumes no specialised knowledge of hydraulics, needs access only to basic machine tools and a few common engineering materials. Describes how to make a hydraulic ram from mild steel, some nuts and bolts and two rubber disks. Part One contains details of how to make and maintain a small hydraulic ram on a suitable site, Part Two takes a more technical look at ram performances and design considerations and also contains a useful bibliography. Excellent, clear plans for making your own hydraulic ram water pump from standard pipe fittings. Buy online from the Development Bookshop: Manual on the Automatic Hydraulic Ram for Pumping Water

"Hydraulic Ram Pumps: A guide to ram pump water supply systems" by T.D. Jeffrey, T.H. Thomas, A.V. Smith, P.B. Glover and P.D. Fountain, Practical Action, ISBN 1853391727
Step-by-step instructions on designing, installing and operating hydraulic ram pumps. Illustrations and diagrams, details of a pump designed for a local manufacture, notes for those developing their own model. Buy online from the Development Bookshop: Hydraulic Ram Pumps: A guide to ram pump water supply systems

"How to Make a Rope and Washer Pump" by Robert Lambert, 1989, Practical Action, ISBN 1853390224
How to make a simple, cheap pump which can raise water 18 feet from a stream or well at an output of 1 litre per second. Designed to irrigate small plots. A rope is pulled up through a pipe by means of a pulley wheel -- an old tyre. Fixed to the rope are flexible rubber washers (cut from another tyre) slightly narrower than the pipe; as the washers are pulled up through the pipe water is drawn up and discharged at the top. Rope and washers pass around the pulley wheel and return to the bottom of the pipe. Clever! Buy from Amazon.com: How to Make a Rope and Washer Pump

"How to Make and Use the Treadle Irrigation Pump" by Carl Bielenberg and Hugh Allen, Practical Action, ISBN 1853393126
The treadle irrigation pump is able to lift up to 7,000 litres of water per hour using the power of the human body, and can be made locally at low cost in small-scale metalworking shops. Its acceptance in Bangladesh where it was first developed in 1984 is extraordinary, with over 500,000 pumps estimated now to be in use. The current design in this manual has evolved from the Bangladesh original into a fully portable pump with both lift and pressure capacity and is especially good for use in permeable soils where water cannot easily be distributed through channels. Buy from Amazon.com: How to Make and Use the Treadle Irrigation Pump

Water Lifting Devices: A Handbook, Third Edition, Peter Fraenkel and Jeremy Thake, Practical Action, ISBN 9781853395383Updated and expanded new edition of Water Pumping Devices, long the authority on the subject. Detailed review of the water-lifting technologies available to smallholders for irrigation, along with new information covering drinking water for humans and livestock. Overview of the entire spectrum of pumps and water lifting devices for small-scale applications and a basis for comparing and choosing between them. Comprehensive single source of practical information. Buy from Amazon.com: Water Lifting Devices: A Handbook